Devils Paw: Climbing British Columbia’s Iconic Juneau Icefield Peak

Why Devils Paw Stands Out

Devils Paw rises as the highest point of the Juneau Icefield, its distinctive double summit and steep rock faces creating one of the most recognizable landmarks along the BC-Alaska boundary. The peak’s isolation within a vast expanse of ice and snow makes it a compelling objective for climbers seeking both technical challenge and true wilderness immersion.

Reaching the Mountain

No roads lead to Devils Paw. Most visitors fly by helicopter from Juneau, Alaska, landing directly on the icefield near the base of the peak. Fixed-wing flights from Atlin, British Columbia, or Skagway can also position parties for ski-plane access when conditions allow. Once on the ice, travel is by ski or foot, often requiring crevasse navigation and route-finding across the icefield’s broad plateau.

Climbing Routes and Terrain

The standard ascent follows the southwest ridge, a mixed route of snow, ice, and exposed rock that demands glacier travel skills, crampon technique, and comfort with moderate rock climbing. The north face offers steeper ice and mixed lines for advanced parties. Because the mountain sits on the international border, climbers must carry appropriate identification and be prepared for possible customs inquiries upon return.

Essential Preparation

• Strong glacier-travel and crevasse-rescue proficiency are mandatory.
• Weather windows are short; multi-day storms can pin teams to camp for days.
• All food, fuel, and shelter must be carried in and packed out.

Best Time to Visit

Prime conditions occur from late April through early July when snow bridges are still intact and daylight is long. Later in summer, crevasses open and rockfall increases. Winter ascents are possible but require greater commitment and specialized cold-weather experience.

Nearby Destinations

After a Devils Paw climb, many parties continue across the Juneau Icefield to other notable summits such as The Snowfield Peak or the Taku Towers. Lower-elevation options include exploring the historic mining trails around Atlin or taking a boat tour on Atlin Lake to view the surrounding peaks from the water.