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  4. Mhalatswe River: Botswana’s Quiet Waterway Through the Tswapong Hills
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Mhalatswe River: Botswana’s Quiet Waterway Through the Tswapong Hills

A seasonal river offering hikers, birdwatchers and wildlife enthusiasts an uncrowded slice of central Botswana's savanna landscape.

BotswanaUpdated 13 October 2026

Why the Mhalatswe River Draws Visitors

Flowing through Botswana’s Central District, the Mhalatswe River carves a gentle path between the dramatic sandstone cliffs of the Tswapong Hills. Its banks support riverine woodland that stands out against the surrounding mopane and acacia savanna, creating a linear oasis for birds and mammals. Unlike larger tourist rivers, the Mhalatswe remains largely undeveloped, rewarding travellers who value quiet walks and authentic rural scenery over crowded viewpoints.

Getting There

Most visitors reach the river via the tarred A1 highway between Gaborone and Francistown, turning east at Palapye onto the gravel roads that lead into the Tswapong Hills. Four-wheel-drive vehicles are advisable once you leave the main road, especially after rain. The nearest sizable town with fuel, supplies and basic accommodation is Palapye, roughly 30 kilometres away.

Best Time to Visit

The cooler dry months from May to October provide the most comfortable conditions for walking and game viewing, when the river may shrink to a series of clear pools. After the November-to-March rains the river can flow strongly, turning the landscape lush but making some tracks impassable; this is also the best period for birdwatching as migrant species arrive.

What to See and Do

Short hikes along the riverbed reveal rock pools, occasional waterfalls and shaded picnic spots beneath large fig and leadwood trees. Birdlife is abundant, with species such as the African fish eagle, lilac-breasted roller and various kingfishers regularly spotted. In the early morning or late afternoon, antelope, warthog and occasionally leopard come to drink. Photographers enjoy the contrast between the red sandstone cliffs and the green ribbon of vegetation. Cultural encounters are possible at nearby villages where residents still use the river for livestock and small-scale irrigation.

Nearby Attractions

  • The dramatic Moremi Gorge and its series of waterfalls lie within an hour’s drive.
  • Traditional villages around Serowe offer insight into Bangwato history and crafts.
  • The vast Makgadikgadi Pans are reachable in a long day’s journey north.

Practical Considerations

Facilities are minimal, so carry sufficient water, food and fuel. Mobile coverage is patchy once you leave the A1. Always obtain permission from local communities before camping or walking on private or communal land. Guided walks with local guides can be arranged through lodges in the Tswapong area and provide both safety and cultural context.

Visitor tips

  • Carry extra fuel and water; reliable supplies end once you leave the A1 highway.
  • Travel with a high-clearance vehicle or join a guided tour, as river crossings and gravel tracks become difficult after rain.
  • Respect village protocols by asking permission before entering communal lands or photographing residents.

Frequently asked questions

Is the Mhalatswe River suitable for swimming?+

Swimming is possible in deeper pools during the rainy season, but strong currents after heavy rain and the presence of crocodiles in some stretches make it inadvisable without local advice.

Do I need a four-wheel-drive vehicle?+

A 4x4 is strongly recommended for the gravel tracks leading to the river from Palapye, particularly between November and March when rain can turn roads into mud.

What wildlife is most likely to be seen?+

Expect antelope, warthog, baboon and a wide variety of birds; larger predators such as leopard are present but rarely seen without patience and local guidance.

Are there any entrance fees or permits required?+

No official park fees apply, but visitors should obtain permission from the local chief or land board before camping or walking through village areas.

How far is the river from Gaborone?+

The drive from Gaborone to the nearest access points near Palapye takes approximately three to four hours depending on road conditions and your final destination along the river.

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