Ninstints (SG̱ang Gwaay): Haida Heritage on British Columbia’s Remote Coast

Why Ninstints Matters

Ninstints, known to the Haida as SG̱ang Gwaay, preserves the most intact collection of standing 19th-century totem poles on the Northwest Coast. The site occupies a sheltered bay on Anthony Island in southern Haida Gwaii, where carved house posts and memorial poles still face the sea. Visitors experience both the artistry of Haida culture and the quiet power of a place left largely as it was after the village was abandoned in the late 1800s.

Getting There

Reaching Ninstints requires a boat or floatplane journey from the communities of Sandspit or Queen Charlotte on Moresby Island. All access lies within Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, so travelers must travel with licensed operators who hold the necessary permits. The voyage crosses Hecate Strait and winds through island channels; the final approach reveals the poles only after rounding a rocky headland. Independent travel is not permitted.

What to See and Do

Once ashore, visitors follow a short boardwalk and forest trail that circles the former village. Guides point out individual poles depicting crests of the Eagle and Raven moieties, weathered longhouses, and the outlines of former house pits. Time on site is limited to protect the poles; photography is allowed from the trail but touching or climbing is strictly forbidden. Many tours also include stops at other Gwaii Haanas sites such as the ancient village of K’uuna or the tidal pools of Burnaby Narrows.

Best Time to Visit

The mildest weather occurs between May and September, when seas are calmer and daylight is long. June and July bring the densest wildflower displays along the shore; August and early September often offer clearer skies for photography. Outside these months, frequent storms and shorter days make travel unreliable and the site inaccessible to most operators.

Nearby Places Worth Exploring

• Hot Springs Island – natural thermal pools reachable by the same boat routes.
• Rose Harbour – a small anchorage with historic buildings and whale-watching opportunities.
• Skidegate Inlet – the Haida Heritage Centre and carving shed on Graham Island, useful for context before or after a southern journey.

These locations combine with Ninstints to create a multi-day itinerary focused on Haida history, temperate rainforest ecology, and marine life.